Argentina

Back to V&S hostel in BA. Shower and walk around town for last shopping.

Minibus trip across the border to see the Brazilian side of the falls. Quite a lot of time spent going through immigration on either side. Brazilian park much more organised/tourist oriented than the Argentine side, but gave a completely different viewpoint so well worth going. Got completely soaked on a walkway to view the Devil’s Throat waterfall from lower down. Back to hostel and swim/wait before going into town for the bus back to Buenos Aires.  Posh bus again with hostess service.

Local bus to Catarates National Park. Fantastic day walking through rain forest to see different parts of the spectacular waterfalls, also lots of birds, butterflies, monkeys, lizards, spiders etc. A full day walking and sightseeing. Amazing view from a walkway right over the top of the Devil’s Throat waterfall. Back to hostel for a swim and buffer dinner. Nice chat with two Candian/Indian guys.

Several hours late arriving in Iguazu due to thunderstorms, heavy rain and fallen trees across the road. Torrential rain so took taxi to the hostel where there was a power cut as a result of the storm. Booked tour to waterfall in Brazil then early night due to power cut.

Up for basic breakfast then walk to bus station. Overnight bus journey to Iguazu interrupted by stops for running repairs as the air conditioning on the bus stopped working.

Late breakfast then off to the bus station for bus to Tucuman. 4 hour bus journey. Set off to walk to the hostel. A few hundred metres from the bus station walking through a market Jenny stumbled on the hole-full pavement (common in Argentina) and fell on her knees, then face, weighed down by her back pack. Nice bruise! Helped back on her feet by two big black market stall owners. Long walk to the hostel especially with a bruised knee and egg shaped swelling on her forehead. At the hostel we were told we had been allocated a small windowless room directly behind the reception. No way! Eventually got put onto a small hotel further back into town. A bit shabby but inexpensive and central with rooms around an open central courtyard – could have been really nice if properly done up. Wandered around Tucuman – nice main square but generally much poorer than elsewhere we’d been. Found a nice cafe up in the posh area and had fresh orange juice. Went and queued at a cash machine when a nice young man stopped and told us about another bank where there were no queues for the machines. Whilst looking for the bank discovered a very nice man’s clothing shop selling Alpaca wool trousers. Robert went in, got himself measured and bought a smart pair of brown wool trousers. Nice chat with a Syrian man on the till who was interested in Sweden.  

Got up later and had a lazy breakfast. Took the cable car about 1000 m up the mountain for lovely views of the city, also nice gardens and birds – just missed photographing an emerald green humming bird but got some other nice shots. Back down to the hotel for a swim in the pool. Went into town to the MAAM archaeological museum based on the discovery of three naturally mummified children high up in the Andes on the (dormant) Llullaillaco volcano – victims of Inca sacrifice. One of the real bodies was on display – in a special ultra-dry and very low temperature enclosure – quite creepy. Went to the park to buy some presents. Back to the hotel for dinner then evening walk into town to see the square lit up in the dark for some night time photographs.

Up early. Quick breakfast then waited for the (late) tour bus. Eventually it arrived but 10 minutes in it became clear that the guide spoke hardly any English, despite being promised an English guide (and written prominently on the brochure). Made our complaints (which he understood!). Drove up into the Andes along the gorge of Humahuaca stopping along the way at Purmamarca and other places for great views of the multicoloured mountains. Very dry, lots of cactuses. Eventually got to Humahuaca, about 3000 m up. Spent a couple of hours wandering around the town, market stalls etc. Then long drive back to Salta. Arrived at Nordic travel head office where we eventually got the manager and received a reasonable refund.

Arrived about midday in Salta and walked to our ‘Petit’ hotel, right underneath the cable car going up to the mountain behind. Went into town to book a tour for the next day, up to Humahuaca. 154 tour agencies in town (somebody told us and it certainly seemed like it) but booked with Nordic tours (obviously). Wandered round the square (named after Chris’ birthday which happens to be Argentina’s independance day). Walked round craft stalls in the park before back to the hotel for a picnic dinner.
 

 

Arrived in BA early in the morning. Got to the hostel at 2 a.m. When we got up we thought we were going to miss breakfast but turned out the government had decided not to make the winter-summer time hour change after all so we were in time! Croissants! And lots of teenage girls! (school trip?). Went to the craft market at Recoleta and bought an acrobat mobile and some pictures. Ugi’s pizza for lunch then off to the bus station. Very hard to find information but our bus did turn up on time. Very push with fully reclining seats and hostess and meal service. Sat up front at the top with a good view. Movies, and then to sleep.

Got up late. Long walk along the bay (Golfo Nuevo) to the Ecocentro – but it wasn’t open. So found a really nice bar and sat on the balcony in the sun looking over the bay enjoying a beer or two or three ... Walked back along the bay, followed by another dog ... Dinner at the hostel and then minibus to the airport for a (very) late flight to Buenos Aires.

Up early. Boring breakfast (no lemon meringue pie!). Tour to Valdes Peninsula. First stop at a beach to watch whales and dolphins coming in really close. Then on to pick up a boat which took us out to see to watch more whales, this time coming right under the boat, but bit hard to see as really too many people on the boat. Back to shore for lunch then off to see sea elephants, first on one beach from high up and then at another much closer. Then to see penguins. Finally a long drive back to the hostel.

Quiet day in Calafate. Went for a walk down to the nature reserve and saw flamingos. Followed back by a dog who didn’t leave us until we went into the supermarket. Back to the hostel, lazy afternoon cooking lunch and reading, doing our laundry! Flight to Trelew and caught a late minibus to Puerto Madryn.

 

Up early for breakfast – back to cornflakes and bread and jam! Minibus pick up at 8 to go to the glacier. Fantastic days tour. First part on dirt roads – amazing views and saw eagles, flamingos, condors, rheas, sheep, goats ... And then into the glacier national park. Amazing views – see the picture. Had a hike along the lake shoreline  by the south glacier face and then lunch at the main glacier viewing point, watching small parts break off and crash into the lake. After lunch went to the other side of the glacier and had a boat trip right along the north face of the glacier. Cold wind!! Then back to Calafate.

Late getting up. Trees heavy with snow – one in front of the Posada had fallen over during the night because of the weight. Lemon meringue pie (and other things) for breakfast! Taxi to the airport and another wait – still snowing but this time we managed to leave. Arrived in Calafate and got the bus from the airport to the hostel. Booked our trip for the next day, went to the supermarket to buy dinner (Chris pizza sandwich – very tasty with a bottle of red wine) and lunch. And to bed (in another very hot room) ...

Last day in Ushuaia (or so we thought). Picked up by tour guide and headed north into the Andes foothills. Stopped at winter sports centre with huskies for sled racing. Through the ski area – last day of the season – past beaver dams. Then on to a view over Lago Escondido (the hidden lake) – little light snow. Drove through the sawmill area and saw where the Bolivian and Peruvian workers live – in the middle of nowhere. Further on to Lago Fagnano – big and cold! On the way back the snow was starting to come down heavier. Dropped off at the airport to wait for our plane – not worth doing anything else because of the weather. Sat in the cafe all afternoon. Snow getting worse – a real blizzard. Eventually the plane couldn’t land because of the snow so the flight was cancelled. Had to collect our luggage and rebook our tickets. Thankfully the Posada still had rooms available. Really hairy taxi ride – the driver was heading up the hills as fast as he could so he didn’t slide back, and not planning to stop at the road intersections! But we made it safely back – for coffee and lemon meringue pie and then bed.

Got up late. Fantastic breakfast – home made bread, fresh orange juice, croissants ... Took a taxi up to the chair lift, then the chair lift up to the glacier. Getting cold!! Walked up a short way to see the view, but clouds closing in and starting to snow so caught the lift down again. Hot chocolate in the cafe. Then walked down the hill back into Ushuaia through the ‘suburbs’ – most of the houses not finished being built, bit of a mess ... Went to the Yamana museum about the original people of Tierra del Fuego. Very few of them left now. Back to hotel.

Breakfast – cereal and toast and first taste of Dulce de Leche (very condensed milk). Went down to harbour. Cloudy but sun coming out so decide to take a boat trip on the Beagle Channel. Good decision – the sea was really calm and the weather just kept getting better. Saw sea lions, cormorants, penguin (one), fantastic views on the channel and mountains. After 4 hours back at the harbour. Walked down to the bus station and caught a (mini)bus out to the national park. Hiked for a couple of hours. Saw kelp geese, beaver dams, more fantastic scenery, reached a bridge just in time to catch the bus back. More salad from the deli at the supermarket. New hotel – Posada de Fin del Mundo.

Took a taxi out to Jorge Newberry airport (domestic flights) for our flight to Ushuaia - three and a half hours but no vegetarian sandwiches. Robert had to wait ages for his luggage and then had to have it completely unpacked by customs, but waited for another lady first who had a suitcase completely full of meat of various sorts, even though there were large notices in BA saying that this wasn't allowed (because of foot and mouth). So it all got confiscated - but in Robert's bag they didn't find anything at all interesting. Taxi to Rosa de los Ventos hosteria for one night. Went to the tourist office to check out the possible trips. Walked down the main street (about all there is in Ushuaia) and eventually found a supermarket. Nice delicatessen counter which provided us with several meals during our stay - the lady serving got used to us! The hosteria had very hot underfloor heating - could almost have cooked eggs on it  - so had to ask for it to be turned off for the night. A small room at the top gave fantastic views over the town, mountains and Beagle channel.

Went to the bus station to book tickets for later in the trip. Hundreds of different companies each with their separate little offices selling tickets - but eventually found one helpful lady that could book everything for us in one go - including an 'executive suite' on our first trip - wonder what that will be like! Then to the train station (next door) to catch the train to Tigre - one hour to the north west in the Parana delta. Got lunch from fantastic bakery - best pain chocolat ever. Took the local boat-bus out to Tres Bocas in the delta. Lots of houses (some very nice) on little islands with jetties - people stand at the end and flag down the boat. No roads - just waterways at the end of the gardens so absolutely everything goes by boat. Even kids going to school or grocery stores. Went for a walk around Tres Bocas island - about 2 hours. First bit on a boardwalk but then it got very muddy for a while. Robert was all for turning back (didn't have walking shoes on) but Jenny said let's go on and fortunately the path then got a lot drier. Arrived back at the pier for a nice cold beer before catching the boat-bus back to Tigre. Bought a lovely quiche (almost as good as Robert's) for dinner, then took the train back to BA.

Up early for a delicious breakfast of cornflakes and toast! Headed past the Teatra Colon (covered in scaffolding) to see the Basilica Neustra Senora del Pilar and the famous cemeterey where the rich and famous of BA are buried - in very very fancy mausoleums above ground. Took a long time to find the grave of Evita. Went to see the Foloarlis Generica - a giant metal flower with petals that open at sunrise and close at sunset. On the way saw many  paseaperos - professional 'dog walkers' each with 10 or more dogs. Went past the zoo to the botanical gardens and then on to trendy Palermo. Took the subtea (underground) to Plaza de Mayo to see the Casa Rosada ('Pink House') and then to the old port - Puerto Madero - with the Puente de la Mujer (womens bridge). Across the water to the nature rserve for a nice walk and saw some baby ducks! Went to the supermarket and bought some salad and bread and wine for dinner. Then back to the hostel - a long day.

Arrived in Buenos Aires after a 16 hour flight. Caught the bus and then transferred to a taxi which took us to the V&S hostel on Viamonte. Walked up 3 flights of narrow stairs to reception! Checked in and shown to our nice double room. After a quick shower we headed off into BA, visiting San Telmo and La Boca, where we watched the tangoe dancers on Cominito. Walked back to the hostel picking up takeaway pizza and a bottle of wine for dinner on the way.